Next to the road near Akori, Armenia, we come to a shack advertising food, a steamy one-room eatery smelling of ash, smoke, mutton and cabbage. We step inside and sit in a sphere of heat coming from a wood-burning stove. Three men are playing cards at the only other table, growling out their bids and arguing over each other’s playing, while a woman prepares their food. We order coffee and discuss tomorrow’s itinerary.