Jul 31, 2019, 11:33 AM

I spent part of this morning on the waterfront with the fishermen looking across the Golden Horn to Galata.

On my way there, I passed through the Kapalı Çarşı (Grand Bazaar) and had a breakfast of (very good) lentil soup. As I was paying, I heard the sudden dash of breaking crockery, and I observed that shards of a broken tea saucer were striking the backs of my heels. Startled, I turned around and saw a young man was trying to bludgeon another young man over the head with a mop handle. Insults were exchanged as the young gentlemens’ seconds attempted to pull them apart. It was at this moment that I dissolved into the gaping crowd.

I still have nearly an entire afternoon ahead of me.